Discussion in ' Toilet Forum discussions ' started by zimmee66Feb 4, Log in or Sign up. Can I attach fernco directly to flange? Hi All! What I planned to do was use a banded coupling not technically a fernco, I understand and attach that to the old brass ferule after cutting away the lead, and to PVC with a new flange on the end of the new PVC riser. The problem turns out to be that the cast iron closet bend with brass ferrule soldered in the bell leaves just 5 inches or so clearance between the end of the bell not including the ferrule and the bottom of the flange.
With flooring included more like 4 inches. The rubber coupler alone is almost 4 inches. Is there a special flange I can buy that has a built-in riser? Or is it ok to use such a short length of PVC as a riser? I hope Ive explained this OK It sure is cold in the outhouse! JPG File size: Most are only 2"-3" long. They make spigot flanges that you could use, but if it were I, I would remove the brass ferrule and install a new cast iron riser and cast iron flange and do the job right.
Make life easy for yourself and cut that cast iron where it turns horizontal, leave enough to use a 4"X4" Mission no-hub coupling. Then use a 4"X3" reducing coupling or fitting, come off with either a 3" 90 or street 90 and cut your length of 3" to get to the new 4"X3" closet flange. Fighting that short distance between the floor and the top of hub limits the tools needed to gain access to start over. If you cannot get to the horizontal then follow the idea of leaving the brass ferrule intact and taking off from there.
You can use a 4" clay to 3" PVC fernco coupling to go over that 4" cast hub, you will have to slide the 3" vertical pipe going into the coupling farther than usual to get past the brass ferrule, but I didn't say that. Last edited: Feb 4, Dunbar PlumbingFeb 4, Thanks AJ and Rugged Thanks AJ-- Your right its not a banded coupling, its a plumqwik.
I'd LOVE to use cast iron but even in the nearby towns no plumbers does it anymore, and im sure it's beyond my skill level. This is an century old farm house--everything is kludged in.
In fact, it's the job nobody wants! We have a couple local guys but they aren't really plumbers--just handymen. Its country, and a skilled plumber wouldnt have enough work, so Im on my own I guess. The tip about the cheater clay-PVC fitting is great, I'll make that my backup plan depending on how I do with the brass ferrule.
Im cut down to the ferrule now. Id like to leave the lead on--I know sometimes its torched off but the joist is notched for the pipe already and it would be pretty risky along with the challenge just physically getting in there.
The PlumbQwik fits the ferrule reasonably well even with lead on it. I just cant figure out how to get from the flange plastic to the plumbqwik. Last edited: Feb 5, Joined: Nov 12, Location: Ohio. From up above get a sawsall with the longest blade you can find and cut through the lead to the inside of the CI hub in a few places.
In the past, I have connected P traps just by cementing it to the wall stubout but recently have been thinking about portability in case the sink and its drain position changes. I find that, in that case, having an easily replaceable connector would be of advantage and the Fernco rubber sleeve with a worm gear clamp came to mind.
This will work, but there is a specific type of fitting which is made for this purpose called a trap adapter. One end glues directly to the stub, and the other has a compression fitting that will accept the trap. There is a big advantage of using the trap adapter over gluing. It allows easy removal of the entire trap for renovations, or maintenance. Lets say that you have the trap glued in and you want to replace the sink or counter. You would have a tough time removing the trap, and it would involve extensive plumbing work.
With the trap adapter, all you would have to do is unscrew it from the wall, and from underneath the sink and the entire assembly can come out in one piece. The adapters are also fairly inexpensive, and may even cost less than a comparable fernco fitting. The adapter is superior because it is nearly flush with the wall, and easier to remove.
Below are some examples of trap adapters. They are available in 1. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Should P trap be connected using Fernco coupling? Ask Question. Asked 4 years, 1 month ago. Active 4 years, 1 month ago. Viewed 2k times. Is it okay to use Fernco for a portable P trap connection or should it be done with cement?
Aside from the clamp coupling, if you care about re-positionability you might want to use a P-trap with a built-in union. But really, if you're replacing a sink, is cutting and replacing some PVC a big deal? The fernco coupling probably costs about as much as a whole PVC trap assembly.Hi pals Can any one tell me all the hidden programs in xp and how ro use these programs plzzzzz.
I have been told there is a special electric shower that can be hidden from sight with only the controls and thermostat showing but I don't know where to buy it and what it is called. Having trouble with my car. When it is on a red light or stop sign or even on drive position it Likes chokes like its not giving fuel.
I tap the gas pedal and it goes. Also, When starting my car it cranks but I have to press the gas pedal 1 time to start. It doesn't give me a hard time in the I bathroom addition to the basement quickly progressed to replacing all the sewer lines.
I have used 4" PVC and a fernco where I tied in to the 4" CI right before it goes through the footer and out to the street. Someone gave me the advice that I should use concrete and in case the fernco Remember Me? Find questions to answer Find today's questions Find unanswered questions. Search Topics. Login Not a member?
Join our community. Aug 29,AM. Hesitation about Fernco Neoprene Coupling hidden in wall Hello again, you guys rock I am converting my cast stack to pvc and am concerned about the transition point. My question is: Are those couplings reliable enough to install inside of a wall and just forget about it? Please keep in mind that I will be discharging a half bath past the transition. I understand that I should leave as small a gap as possble with nice clean straight cuts between the cast and pvc within the band and then tighten to a particular torque, to minimize complications.
But I'm just so darn nervous about not having access to this joint. Am I being unreasonably anal?. RickJ Posts: 7, Reputation: I've got literally dozens of Fernco's No Hubs buried in wallsQuestions and discussions about toilets, sinks, faucets, drainage, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, water quality, and other exclusively PLUMBING related issues. Please refrain from asking where to purchase a product, or business, pricing, or legal questions, or for contractor referrals, or any questions not related to plumbing.
Subscribe to RSS
Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. This site is free, ad free, pop-up free and made possible by:. Hello everyone. I am current in process of converting my empty basement into something more enjoyable.
I have reached the point where I want to put up the walls of the bathroom. Before I can do this I need to put in the rough in plumbing connection for the bathroom. I have to cut the basement floor to get to the main sewer line to join the drain lines from the bathroom to the main sewer line.
Once the floor is cut and I have access to the main sewer line I plan on inserting a necessary Tee fitting into the main line.
My problem is this, there will not be any play with the main line to get a tee fitting place and I need to use some type of coupling.How to install a slip coupler - OSMA Soil & Waste
What type of coupling? If I use the Fernco coupling can this be put into the ground and cemented over. And is there anything special that needs to be done to it before I do so. Or do I user a PVC repair coupling. However I read nothing but hoar stories when people have tried to use this with the glue drying to fast and not being able to get the coupling in place. That or they get it in place but it ends up leaking. Other people thoughts and experiences are welcome at this point.
Unless local code states otherwise, I would use a shielded no-hub coupling, without giving it a second thought. Use a "shielded no-hub coupling". You'll have to 'roll' it back on itself both of them, either end halfway to get it in place but not too difficult.
I agree a shielded coupling is best. PVC repair couplings are fine on a theoretical level, but they are a stinker to install and you only get one shot. Buried, I don't have a problem with the all rubber coupling, but the correct shielded one is better. Thanks everyone for there quick response. This is not the only forum that I post this question to. The answer I have gotten have been about Some people say go with the repair PVC coupler and other say go with some type of Fernco coupler.
I decided to attempt the PVC coupler. I feel cemented PVC coupler is far better than having a rubber coupler held on with a clamp that over time could rust or corrode off. I have found slow setting PVC cement that takes time longer to set then normal cement. This should allow me time to get the PVC coupler in place before the cement hardens and locks the coupler in place. If so I will attempt on the main sewer line, let the cement dry and leave the main sewer line exposed for a week.
Then when some takes a shower or something long running I can look to see if the coupler leaks. If it does leak then I can remove it and then use the Fernco coupler. If it does not then I am far better off having like for like material and no chance of the clamps rusting or corroding off over time.
Edited 1 times.Discussion in ' Plumbing Codes ' started by fehujberApr 25, The Building Code Forum. Welcome to the new and improved Building Code Forum. We appreciate you being here and hope that you are getting the information that you need concerning all codes of the building trades.
This is a free forum to the public due to the generosity of the Sawhorses, Corporate Supporters and Supporters who have upgraded their accounts. If you would like to have improved access to the forum please upgrade to Sawhorse by clicking here: Upgrades.
Fernco yes or no?? Ok since I get myself into charged debates here is another. Fernco flexible couplings ICC approved or not? Ferncos' own installation instructions say after installation and torquing to test the joint to 4. This would indicate a default fail for these fittings, precluding their use. Let the whippings begin!
Joined: Jun 12, Messages: Likes Received: 3. Joined: Oct 17, Messages: 5, Likes Received: We still allow 5 psi DWV tests here, climate driven.
But yes, throw the water test at it, all is good. Papio Bldg Dept Platinum Member. Joined: Jan 24, Messages: 1, Likes Received: 1. I'm with codeworks and fatboy. The permit holder determines which test to use per IPC : All plumbing system piping shall be tested with either water or, for piping systems other than plastic, by air. PVC mechanical joints shall be installed in accordance with manuf.
Gregg Harris Saw Horse. Joined: Jan 17, Messages: Likes Received: Moscow Bronze Member. Joined: Nov 9, Messages: 99 Likes Received: 0. I can't speak for IPC, however here you would have to use a nohub band just like you would see on cast iron.
I installed a wye in the vertical drain pipe, and I needed a way of reconnecting said pipe after introducing the new fitting.
To do this, I took a section of the 3" pipe, glued it to the top of the wye, and joined it to the original pipe with a Fernco fitting specifically, this guy. The question: is it safe to leave the Fernco fitting in place and enclose it in a wall when I go to finish the basement? I wouldn't say its a great idea in my opinion - but on the other hand, using a coupling is generally code compliant. I'm not a huge fan of those repair couplers, but they are usually approved for joining like materials underground if they're fully sheathed the coupling is surrounded by stainless steel - called a mission coupling so I don't see why it would be a problem in the basement unburied.
Whatever you do, make sure you properly cement that coupling in place. I would call the inspector on that one, just to be sure. Something like this is one of those plumbing code issues which varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. When dealing with sanitary sewer piping, I wouldn't scrimp out on a fitting just to save a few bucks Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Is it a good idea to use a Fernco repair fitting within a finished wall cavity?
Ask Question. Asked 9 years, 8 months ago. Active 9 years, 8 months ago. Viewed 4k times.
Subscribe to RSS
My former roommate in the pipefitter's unionwould have PVC 'repair couplings'. They were like a straight coupling, but didn't have a stop on the inside, so you could slide it fully over one pipe, join the two up, then slide it to join the two. It looks like they also might be called a 'slip coupler'. You want to prep the pipes first, and mark them so you know you hae the coupling centered over the break.
Active Oldest Votes. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Email Required, but never shown. The Overflow Blog. Socializing with co-workers while social distancing. Featured on Meta.The Wall. Click here to Find a Contractor in your area. Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum. If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out.
It's a great way to thank those who helped you. Need to contact us?
Subscribe to RSS
Jackchips Member Posts: I am an assistant in a small town where my boss will not accept them. I personally do not see a problem, especially if you use the four band. Any other Mass plumbers out there with an opinion? Jerry Member Posts: 9. December Does anyone agree or disagree? Does anyone care?
Alan Muller Member Posts: But strictly speaking the coupling should be marked and listed for the type of pipe you are using it on. No-hub couplings are usually only marked for no-hub iron. You can get couplings with stainless shields marked for plastic, steel, iron Usually they are a bit longer.
Practices vary from place to place. I would not use the unshielded plain rubber type above grade except for temporary or emergency use. That's exactly why I asked. My suplier gave me the all rubber type and it is correctly marked. He says this is code approved, the no-hub is not, but the Fernco is a sloppy fit and does not insure pipe alignment.
The no-hub although shorter, as you said makes a much stronger, tighter connection. Can you forsee any long term problems indoor, residential, concealed? I can't see a problem, but I want to do it right. Is this for drainage or plumbing, non pressurized installation? A transtition coupling is what you are looking for. Usually they are labeled with a neon colored sticker which describes the size.